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If your boat has a boom end main sheet, you have probably tripped over that pile of line laying on the cockpit sole more than once. After swearing there must be a better way, I decided to "tame" the main sheet with a stern rail mounted sheet bag. While there are commercially made bags available, I made a simple 2 X 2 foot square bag with grommets in the top corners and a grommet in the bottom for drainage. Using the corner grommets, I tied the bag to the inside top rail of the stern rail. While closehaul sailing, most of the main sheet remains in the bag reducing cockpit clutter. If I had a mid-boat traveller ( future project pending), I think a sheet bag mounted below the winch on the cabin bulkhead would be a worthwhile addition.
Small Volvo Diesel Owners Tip
I knew that NAPA carried fuel and oil filters for my MD7B but I just found out they also have water pump repair kits, thermostats, and other small repair parts at great prices compared to Volvo.
Wash Your Lines
Ever have a line get wet with saltwater? How many times has your anchor line been wet with saltwater and then dried? The point is that salt build-up on lines is going to happen. The salt crystals can cut away at your line's fibers making them weak and old before their time. So, get out a large garbage can and the garden hose and clean those lines. I like to start by soaking them in just plain water for a day. Then rinse and rinse until most of the salt is out. I finish with a wash with Joy dish detergent and another rinse. I lay the wet line out to dry and now I'm ready for the season with (almost) salt-free lines.
Change Lines Ends
Well, I'm certain all of you washed out your lines after my last tip. Now that your ready to put them back aboard - reverse ends. This is a great way to change the location of your line's high wear points. I know my anchor line never gets but halfway out normally but when I do use the full length I would like not to have half of it wornout and half of it like new. This may require adding a thimble and eye splice to the other end - no big deal - do it. If you are looking for motivation checkout the replacement cost of your lines and divide by 2. Is it worth it?
More Storage Space
My Cape Dory has twin 30 gallon water tanks placed under the main cabin berths. This large water capacity would be great if I were planning a long distance cruise but since I normally weekend cruise around the Chesapeake Bay the water usually gets stale before use. It is an easy job with a screwdriver to remove a tank to gain this additional storage space. Before removing your extra tank consider your boat balance. My choice was to remove the tank on the same side of the boat as my fuel tank. Additional hatches may be required to access this new space. Don't modify anything to prevent you from reinstalling the tank. You never can tell that Bermuda trip you alwayed dreamed of may come true.
Docking
I know this tip may seem obvious but I tried many ways to dock (mostly single handed) before learning this simple approach.
Before arriving at the dock determine the wind and current direction. If possible plan to be heading into the current and/or wind. Slow down and aim for about a 45 degree angle course to the closest corner of the dock. If the dock has lines available fine, if not prepare one for the first available piling. When you are about 1 to 1 ½ boat lengths away slowly swing your boat parallel to the dock while reducing speed. All this is pretty normal stuff. The trick is to get one stern quarter line secured as your boat coast to a stop. The location of this line should be approximately half way between your boat’s mid-section and the stern cleat. On my boat the genoa sheet winch works well. If properly positioned the boat can be held against the dock with a slight thrust from the engine. If the line is too far back- the bow will hit the dock hard and if too far forward- then the stern may swing out away from the dock. After establishing the stern quarter line proceed with your remaining lines. Everyone’s boat and differing conditions may require adjustments but this arrangement has worked for me- most of the time.
Dinghy Towing
To be safe and sure when towing an inflatable dinghy use two separate lines led to your two stern cleats. Once I tried using one line in a bridal arrangement to make things easier. This arrangement may work fine in normal conditions but it is not good if there is strong wind and waves. I started out solo one day with a normal stiff breeze which picked up to about 20 -22 kts. with 3 - 4 ft waves. During a gust the dinghy became airborne and flipped. An upside down dinghy acts like a good sea anchor making it impossible to pull in and turn over without stopping. After hoving-to I was able to right the dinghy and add the additional tow line. With the dual arrangement you can shorten the lines making it impossible for the dinghy to flip. It only took me one experience with a flipped dinghy to stick with dual towing lines.
TWO LINES ARE BETTER THAN ONE.Sounding Pole
I don't know about your depth finder but mine is not great with depths less than 5 feet and soft bottoms. There are also those times when I run aground and would like to know which side of the boat has the deep water. To handle these situations I have made a simple sounding pole. The pole is made from 1/2" CPVC pipe with end caps. Add a small amount of sand to the pipe before cementing the end caps on to give the pole some ballast. The pole can be marked in feet using paint. The nice thing about this pole is that it works well but is flexible enough to be tied to my lifelines following the curve of my boat.
Small Outboard Motor Care
Some of us will know what we should be doing for small outboard motor care BUT we don’t do it. Hopefully after reading this tip those of us who know and ignore will start to perform these simple steps.
First things first is to know your small outboard. Completely read the owners manual cover to cover. I know I have never done this until a problem has occurred but I do know that after reading the manual I always find out something new. Fuel mixture ratio with the correct oil is very important for 2 cycle engines. In my case I luck out since I have a 4 cycle Honda. The age and condition of your fuel is also major factor in preventing problems. A small amount of water in your fuel or a full summer of aging in the sun can make the best engine run poorly. The most critical operation required to prevent motor problems is to run all the gas out of the unit before letting it sit idle for more than a couple of days. Allowing gas to evaporator in the carburetor into a gummy gel is the number one problem of small outboards. After ensuring that you’re doing the right stuff for your fuel system, make certain that your water pump impeller is changed at least every other year and that the plugs are in good shape. Running the outboard in fresh water once a year can help eliminate salt build up in the small water passages. A small repair kit with a replacement shear pin and emergency pull cord is a good idea to have with your small outboard.
Prepare for a Hurricane
With all the excitement with Bertha I thought it would be timely you go over some of the things you can do to prepare your boat for an approaching hurricane. The first decision is where to put your boat.
1. Leave it in its slip.
2. Move it on shore.
3. Take it to a mooring in a " hurricane hole" anchorage.
4. Go to sea.
While all the above have their advantages and disadvantage, I'm going to assume you are leaving your boat in its slip.
The object first is to reduce the windage of your boat. Remove dodges, biminis, awnings,sailbags, and other objects that may cause problems in high wind. You may choose to remove your main sail but if you don't be certain to add lashing to the outside of the sailcover. This prevents the sail from coming loose and destroying itself in the wind. If you have a furling head sail have it furled tightly and secured. You may want to remove your topping lift and secure the boom end on deck. It also makes sense to remove any electronics or other valuables from the boat that might become damaged by water. The rail mounted outboard should be removed and taken off the boat.
Next look at your boat and imagine it floating 4-6 ft above the normal high tide. Loosen all bow and stern lines leaving lots of slack. The position of the boat in the slip should be maintained with plenty of long springlines. Place fenders along the pilings or the dock where the boat may end up in case of line failure. Test the movement of the boat in all directions.
The last word of advice is to have your boat properly insured. You cannot get a policy enforced a day or two before the hurricane hits. If you want insurance get it now.
Take all warnings seriously. I know recently that many hurricane warnings have resulted in little to no storm damage giving everyone the feeling that all this preparation work is needless. No one can predict exactly where hurricanes will hit so accept the fact it could hit your area. Preparation for a hurricane- Just Do It!Getting Off The Bottom
If you cruise in the Chesapeake Bay this tip should come in handy. Much of the bay is shallow and sometimes when you least expect it - bump - you’ve run aground. Fortunately the type of bottom most commonly found is sand or mud which is generally harmless.
The first suggestion is prevention but I admit that I have had my fair share of groundings. Sometimes it’s accidental but other times I’m just pushing my luck to explore that special location.
The first thing to do when you feel your boat first touch is to make a quick decision. Do you know where the deep water is and can you get to it? Many times a slight brush with the bottom simply means quickly changing course and sailing or motoring out to the deeper water. If that is not the case then first take the time to survey the depth around your boat to determine which direction is the best way out. Check to see if the tide is rising or falling. If it is rising take your time and the tide may just float you off. On a falling tide one must work quickly. Try moving the crew out on the rail or the boom to get your boat to heel. On smaller boats rocking the boat with crew movement may help. If the water is warm have the largest crew members go swimming to lighten the boat and have them nudge the bow in the correct direction. When all else fails use the mast as a long lever to heel your boat over. You can put out an anchor perpendicular to your boat and then attached it to the halyard and winch your boat over. If you get assistance from a motor boat have him heel you over with a line attached to a halyard. Most boats draw very little water when heeling over with their rail is in the water but beware- this could cause trouble with wing keel designs.
If all else fails then set out your anchors to maintain position and wait for high tide. I’ve found some of my most enjoyable anchorages stuck to the bottom. Cruising is fun - so keep it that way. If you’re aground waiting for a tide change then go swimming, read a book, fix a meal, play a game or any of the other things you love to do. Don’t let it ruin your day.
Staying Onboard
Do you have a safety harness and a proper fixture to secure it to on your boat? Well as the water temperatures start to drop so do your chance of survival if you happen to go over the side. A life preserver is good but that still means that the boat has to come back and find you. This is very unlikely if you solo sail like I do.
On my boat I have permanent jacklines made of 1/4” rigging wire which run from bow to stern on both sides. They are stretched fairly tight so that I don’t trip over them. Other types of jacklines are made of heavy harness strap material but those are usually removable since the sun’s UV exposure will weaken them. Even a spare line run from the bow cleat to the stern cleat will do in a pinch. The object is to avoid attaching to the convenient location of lifelines or their bases. Lifelines are generally not constructed to take the forces generated by your safety tether and they also do not allow you to travel very far before having to be detached.
If you don’t have a safety harness please get a quality one that fits. This is not the piece of equipment to cut corners on cost. Cheap one are cheap - A good one will cost $80 -100 at a discount store. Fancier models are available which have built-in flotation and other horns and whistles. Get one - Wear It - Use it properly -It could save your life.
Feedback from a reader
From: Allender- NZ
Subject: jack stays
Gidday Jim
Just had a quick look at your pages and noticed your thoughts on jackstays and you said you keep them fairly taut. This it not a good idea as the force that is exerted on them should one fall is far greater than if they are kept as loose as practical. If you imagine a tight rope walker on a taut rope and one on a very loose one that sags down say 45 deg you will find the force on the fixing points differs greatly. No doubt the mathematicians amongst us could say but I suspect around 10 times eg I'm 80 kgs which means nearly a ton if my lines are tight. I sail a 26 foot keeler Ron Holland designed built in timber around 1977 sloop rigged with a lot of seaworthyness and a lot of fun. Going back to your site now. Rick AllenderI agree with your comments. The forces are very high on the vector analysis of the taut line with a deflection perpendicular to the line. The point you make is a good one and that is the reason I use 1/4" stay wire with backed up thru deck U bolts for end fittings. The same analysis is true for those who use lifelines and it is the reason you can't depend on them. My choice is based on the fact that I can use the jackstays easily and have oversized them for the forces. My suggestion to use line in a pinch may not be great but better than nothing. If you are interested I'm an engineer and the math is quite simple. The angle with force applied = about 8 degrees.( from pulling on actual stay) For the force let's use 400#.( The person doesn't weigh that much but allows for momentum) You have two sides supporting the load so the force on one side is 200#. The line tension = 200/ sin 8 deg. = 1437 # (your guess of 1 ton was close)This does not account for the hanging up on lifelines, sheets or other stuff but it does allow you to play with the numbers. The fact that the wire stretches makes a big difference because if the line remained at a 1 degree angle the forces would be 11,460 # WOW! Slack lines have less force but may cause tripping or tangling. Taut lines (or better -less slack lines) allow easier use with much high forces. Thanks for the feedback Rick
Cooking with Gas
Onboard "Entropy II" I have an old fashion pressurized alcohol stove. I’ve learn to operate it properly and it works fine for low to moderate cooking temperatures but it really is slow when boiling a quantity of water. For my pressure cooker or pan frying a steak it just doesn’t produce enough heat. If I had a larger boat I’d certainly consider installing a built-in propane stove but the requirements for proper installation is really not practical on a 28 ft. boat.
My solution is my single burner sea stove and I love it. This stove uses a single one pound propane cylinder and has a gimbal mount on a detachable bracket. I have one bracket located next to my alcohol stove and one outside on the stern rail. For normal cooking I always use the sea stove first. While it is working I still have available the 2 alcohol burners which serve fine for the simpler task like warming up vegetables. During the hot summer I put the sea stove out on the stern rail and prepare "one pot" specials in my pressure cooker. With the propane as my main burner I find that I can go 7 to 10 meals on one cylinder. Refilling my alcohol stove tank has been more than cut in half.
Propane gas is heavier than air so please take the proper precautions. Do not store the propane cylinders in the cabin or in the lockers. I have a bag attached to my stern pulpit which holds three cylinders. After cooking I always return the propane tank to its storage bag. It may not be fancy but I’m cooking with gas.
Cabin Top Traveler Installation
Russ Campbell modified his Cape Dory 28 from the standard end boom main sheet arrangement to a mid-boom with a cabin top traveler. I am interested in doing the same to my boat. Here's how he did it.
The installation wasn't hard at all. The hard part was buying 8" stainless steel bolts to go through the teak blocks and through the cabin top. No I didn't reinforce the cabin top. After drilling through it I found out its like 3/4" thick and I put big backing plates under the bolts. I cut holes in the head liner to access the nuts and covered them over with thin blocks of teak. I used a 5 to 1 mainsheet system and led the sheet up to the gooseneck and then back to the cabin top winch which seems to be more than adequate to sheet it in. I haven't really found the sheeting force to be that big a deal. It only takes a couple of wraps around the winch and I can crank the sheet in 30+ knots of wind with no trouble at all. Also we used a 4 to1 system on the control lines and even with the main fully loaded in the worst wind even my wife could pull the car up to center line and beyond. The real bonus as you mention is the gain in cockpit space and the fact that you don't have those sheets dragging through the cockpit every time you tack ( or especially jibe). The sail also handles much better and you can control the main better. You can take some of the heel out ( which my wife is appreciative of) with the traveler. It was kind of expensive mostly because I also put in a new mainsheet system using Harken blocks (1540) the price for everything was around $1000.
Rub Rail Upgrade
For many years I lived with the bare teak toe/rub rails on my Cape Dory. While the teak rail is very pretty, it is totally useless as a rub rail. Whenever arriving at dock I was constantly avoiding any contact with the rail to protect them. When tying up along side of a dock I had to use many fenders to ensure nothing would touch the soft teak railing. Hence, I called them my rubless rails.After too long of a delay I finally added the required metal rub strip.
My decision was to go with stainless steel. If I was going to add the strip to protect the teak I didn't want to go cheap and use aluminum and worry about it getting damaged. I got my rails from West Marine (model 408278) in 12 foot lenghts and predrilled on 6" centers.I started at the stern and worked my way around the boat fastening with #8 screws. I also used a little silicon sealant to bed the strip.For the ends at the bow I used tapered rub rail ends (model#202390).The total material cost was under $200 and it took about 2 hours for the job. My only regret was "Why didn't I do this sooner?".
Chart Symbols and Terms Manual
This tip of the week came by way of a Christmas gift from one of my fellow workers. We exchange names at the office and give each other gifts during our Christmas party. My standard is to pick something like a peanut gift box which is easy to find and certain to be consumed by the receiver. This year I received a sailing calendar and the Nautical Chart -Symbols, Abbreviations and Terms Manual. This manual is great and the topic of my tip.
The Nautical Chart -Symbols, Abbreviations and Terms Manual is prepared jointly by the Dept. of Commerce (NOAA) and Dept. of Defense (DMA). It has all the keys,symbols,notes,and terms to explain everything found on NOAA charts. I had the actual Chart #1 (a training chart of somewhere in New England) which on the back gives most of the key information but it was never handy when I needed it. This manual is laid out well by listing items in groups as well as alphabetically in the index. I can't find my chart #1 to compare it to the manual but I know I like the manual better and will keep it close to my navigation station on my boat. My suggestion is to buy the book for yourself and also keep it in mind for a great gift for that fellow sailor.
Once is Not Enough
How many reefs can you take in your main sail? If the answer is one, plan this winter to get your sail to a sail loft to have an additional reef added. If your answer is two, then could you use another? I had a very high third reef sewn in my Cape Dory sail soon after I purchased the boat. I can probably count the number times I used the third reef on one hand but when I need it , it was great to have. Does your boat have roller furling on the headsail? Is your headsail very large? You may want to consider a jiffy reefing for your genoa. I had a hanked on 140% genoa and an 85% jib, which created a large hole in my sail area range. I know it's a little unconventional but I had a reef added to my genoa to reduce it down to about 110%. No, it isn't as easy as roller furling but it works. The reefed 110% sets well and has allowed me to keep my genoa up much longer than before. Reefing is much easier than changing headsails. Before adding the reef there had been numerous time that I had taken down the genoa and hoisted the jib only to find it necessary to put the genoa back up one hour later. So get with your trusted sailmaker now that business is slow and talk about adding an extra reef. Next cruising season you'll be glad you did.
Know your Knots
For this week's tip I'm going to break away from my usual format and send you out to another link. I have avoided doing this up to this point since I hate the number of pages on the web with little content and only links. However, I was impressed with this site and I think you will enjoy it. It shows you a variety of simple knots and explains how to tie and use them. Besides I can't think of a better way to spend that cold winter's night than with a short piece of cord practicing tying your knots.
Ropers Knots Page
Go With The Flow
If you have ever cruised up or down the Bay you know that current can make a big difference in your travel time. So what do you do about it? Read those current tables (now listed on my page) and determine a cruise plan that takes advantage of the currents. I know I can't always avoid heading against a current (I try!) but by studying the current time and speed ratio from Reed's for different locations I can make a smarter course selection. For an example the current running 2 miles west of Wolf trap is one -half the speed of the current to the east side of it. If it's going my way I'm to the east, if not then to the west. The time differences also vary and not just in the North and South directions. Here's the point, all you need is an old copy of Reed's-the location differences are the same each year and check the weekly current tables. It's really great when your speed keeps you traveling along with the current for the entire day.
Let's Get To The Bottom Of Things!
- Yes, it's that time of year when we must perform that annual ritual of painting the bottom of our boat. I have found the following system works well for me. Before getting to where I am today, I had a boat with 10 years buildup of standard high copper content hard antifouling paint. The paint did a great job of preventing most bottom growth but it did not wear down evenly. The only way to keep a consistent surface was to do a fair amount of sanding. I also found areas which would chip off in patches. After all my diligent prep work, I would still find while applying the paint some old paint would peel off onto the roller. The solution at this point was to make sure my roller had plenty of paint to avoid the lifting of the old surface, but this really didn't leave me with a good feeling about the job. To change this situation required a radical move - I had to strip all the old bottom paint off. This was not easy but I used "Peel - Away" paint remover with good results. There still was a fair amount of sanding to get down to the gel coat. At this point I figured I may as well do a barrier coat job so the hull was left to dry out for several months. My bottom was in very good shape so I didn't strip the gel coat. I probably didn't even have to do the barrier coat but after all the work to get to the bare bottom, I thought it was "Now or Never". I used Interlux InterProtect and followed their application guide. One of the important steps to getting the bottom paint to stick to the new barrier coat is to apply the paint before the last barrier coat is fully cured. Follow the manufacture guidelines. I used the Interlux CSC ablative paint and started with two coats of white, followed by two coats of brown. This was for the initial application only.
Well after all that hard work was it worth it? I think so. I still haul my boat annually but am certain the bottom could easily make it for two years without any substantial growth. I just like to give my boat a chance to dryout and I need to do other work as well. (Wax topside,clean prop,service thru hull fittings, etc.) When the boat is hauled the bottom is power washed and it looks good enough to go right back in the water. I've even had people think the year old paint had just been applied. The manufacture recommends 3 coats, but all I do is check for any signs of the white paint showing through. If not, the bottom gets one coat of paint overall and a second from the waterline down to about 2 feet. This paint stays active, wears even, and requires no sanding. I am sticking with the Interlux CSC ( I'm afraid different brands might not interact well) but there are several different brands on the market which are less costly. I am very satisfied with the results and my annual bottom job is now very simple. If you plan to keep your present boat for more than five years I think the hard work is well worth it. If you are doing the barrier coat anyway try the ablative paints. They really avoid that accumulation of old paint and eliminate the sanding part of bottom work.
The Lazy Man's Ice Box Improvement
On older model sailboats (including my CD 28) there is very little insulation used in the original construction of the ice box. When cruising for a week in hot weather I could load several blocks of ice into the bottom of my oversized box and then find it had melted after only a few days. During the melt-down it was difficult to keep meats and other perishable items cold enough.
I had read several articles about adding the ideal 4" (or more) of insulation to the ice box but had never gotten the courage to attack such a project. In my situation there was no room to add the insulation to the outside of the box and to perform the task from the inside would require reconstruction of a new inner lining after the insulation was installed. I figured ice was cheap!
After seeing a flexible ice cooler(12" x 13"x18") in Sam's Club and reading the hype on the label I decided this might offer a cheap and EASY solution. It was made of some "space age foil insulating material". The wall thickness was not very impressive but for $17 I gave it a try.
The cooler unloaded could be folded and pushed through the small opening in the top of my ice box. I still used the area in the ice box outside of the cooler for drinks, fruit, and other items not required to stay very cold. I also used ice in both the ice box and the cooler. The ice inside the box still disappears fast but the ice in the cooler does OK and it's contents stays very cold. One additional benefit is that you can use the cooler to haul your food from home to boat. Yes- I would love to have a built-in ice box with adequate insulation but for $17 and no effort I found a workable solution.
Don't Let That Bottom Scum Get Dry
This is a short and simple tip. When hauling your boat, do not let the bottom dry out before you wash it. Even after a powerwash there is usually some remaining scum left behind. If you attack it before it has a chance to dry it will come off fairly easy. Even barnacles will come off much easier if not left to harden on the hull. So plan your haulout so you can get this nasty job done soon after your boat leaves the water.
I welcome any feedback from readers on their bottom paint experiences.
Double Galley Sink
Sometimes the simplest solution to a problem can be just simply great.
My single small galley sink is next to the first step when entering the cabin on my Capy Dory 28. It's not in the best place but I've learned to live with it. When washing dishes it had occurred to me that a double sink would make this chore much easier. After studying the layout, I found that converting to a double sink was not practical.
While on a short cruise the answer hit me. I could use one of my plastic storage containers as the washing sink and the regular sink as the rinsing one and Voila! -double sink function with no major hassle. The really neat thing was that the plastic container was an exact fit into my existing sink so I could store it there ready to fill with dirty dishes. If I needed to use the sink, I could just lift the plastic tub out, dirty dishes and all. It was so simple I don't know why I hadn't done it earlier.